Today (March 13) is my 50th Birthday. I woke up about 1am (funnily enough about the time I was born) and go out on deck as the MY San Jose takes us from Puerta Ayora on Santa Cruz Island to Espanola Island. The trip seems relatively smooth, the stars brilliantly fill up the sky and phosphorescence dances in our wake as we travel peacefully along. I make myself go back to bed so that I am rested for the days activities. I wake later that morning at the beautiful Espanola Island in the Galapagos. White beach sand, turquoise water, warm weather, on a boat ...heaven. Despite not being with family and friends to celebrate, I feel like Im exactly where I should be for this occasion.
I came here as I really wanted to be on a boat for this significant occasion, yes a yacht preferably, but if not, a boat of any sort! The MY San Jose will do just fine. I read my two daily inspirational passages. I do yoga (naked, I know...too much info) in my cabin as the bar area is in bright sunshine and would be too hot. Interesting trying to balance, breathe and stay focused as the boat gently rocks from side to side...somehow I manage and it is worth it.
The guide Diego knocks on the door promptly at 8am announcing that breakfast is served. My breakfast is fruit, french toast with white cheese (my choice, not served that way) and coffee that the spoon would stand up in...so I had two! There I meet Leonie, the only other passenger for this trip. She seems nice and is from England. Leonie asks how long it took to get through customs. I say about 50 mosquito bites. Note to any travellers to Baltra...apply insect repellent before disembarking the plane!
After breakfast we jump in the tender and get taken to Gardner Bay. They talk about the tricky beach landing that we will have to make...they obviously haven’t been to Sirena Ranger Station in Corcovado National Park..:)! We are dropped on a beach that has the softest whitest sand I have ever experienced, like no one had ever walked there before. The sea is still unsettled from the effects of the tsunami and it is too rough to snorkel (Diego tells us last time it took 5 or 6 days for the waters to calm)...but we swim in refreshing, clear water, occasionally being dumped by the water as a reminder of who is boss here! 
I am grateful to be here but lament not being able to snorkel, then I think about the reason for that and what the tsunami had meant for other people. Here I get to walk on a pristine beach, swim the sparkling crystal water, be so close to sea lions and other marine life....I haven’t lost my home, I haven’t lost a loved one...I stop lamenting and feel grateful for this beauty I am experiencing . As I walk along the shore, 2 spotted eagle rays are swimming along the waters edge, quite visible just below the surface, their wing tips occasionally out of the water through the wash of the waves...who needs to snorkel I say to myself...:)! We hear via txt that there has been another earthquake, this time in China.
After briefly returning to the boat, Johnny takes us in the tender to another potential snorkelling spot. No good, but we see a blue footed booby on the way past the rocks. Then a third spot...this time we try. There are loads of fish, some particularly big king angelfish, another ray, a small shark, large trumpet fish, large yellow tail jacks to name but a few. A sea lion decides to do a lap through us and scares the living daylights out of us, appearing so quickly and unexpectedly. He swims right up and looks me in the eyes...saying happy birthday do you think? Sure feels like it. Once again I am last out of the water...!
On our return Jefferson has prepared a spectacular lunch. A typical Ecuadorian soup of plantains and fish...delicious. Then fish, shrimp and potato with seaweed greek style salad. Finally although I don’t think I can fit it in...a banana drowning in chocolate sauce. Lucky we are going hiking this afternoon, after siesta of course...oh and we moved to another part of the island!
This afternoon's trip was a dry landing, once we shooed the sea lions off the stairs! We walked around the island and saw loads of sea lions again and pretty red crabs on the rocks. On a closer look we also saw mature, and therefore more colourful and bigger, marine iguanas. What sort of crazy mood was going on the day these creatures came about! These are only found in the Galapagos and are the only iguanas that feed in the sea, on seaweed actually. Im amazed how close you can get to all these animals. Virtually having to watch out you don’t step on an iguana or a lava lizard as they don’t move for you. As we walk we see Galapagos Doves, more and more lizards, mockingbirds. I have only one question...why are there flies here. I don’t think they have them in Costa Rica and I was getting quite used to that. If only the mosquitoes would disappear! We walk through, yes through, a colony of nazca boobies, amongst which is a stray blue footed booby. I wonder if the others make fun of his blue feet...! We see lava lizards mating, female iguanas fighting, a female iguana making a nest, all so close...amazing and frightening as well if this is not controlled the impact it will have on this ecosystem. Also we are treated to a spectacular blowhole.
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